Technique Corner
Welcome to the Technique Corner.  The posts are designed to motivate you to work
and grow in your painting and drawing skills.  I hope you find them helpful.


Today's Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008 
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Sunday, August 10, 2008
Getting Darks
Have you noticed how dark and rich shadows are in summer?  Do you get flat ugly color when you try to get darks?   How do you get  colors dark enough?  How do you get dark enough  without Trail to the Falls (fragment)  getting mud or an ugly color that does not look right?  Getting good darks are a natural next step to last month's green problem.

Dark or light is value. I like to think of the value of a hue (a color) as similar to voice.  Some of us are sopranos.  Some of us altos and some tenors, baritones, even bass. I, for example, I am a soprano. I cannot get the rich low notes of a baritone. In the same way each hue has a natural value (voice)  and it is at its lowest (darkest) value as it comes from the tube. Orange is a
lower value than yellow. Violet is darker than orange.

When you thin a pigment with water it gets lighter. But you can go no darker than the full saturation of that particular pigment without changing the hue. It is no longer that color.
Trail to the Falls (fragment)

Get out your palette:
  • Load your wet brush with your darkest most-baritone blue (my darkest blue is phthalo blue) and stroke it on the paper at full saturation --  no gooey pigment. Look at it.  Can you get it  as dark as water under a dock?
  • Add your most baritone green -- mine is phthalo; maybe yours is Hooker's or Cascade.  Now it is darker but also greener.
  • Add your strongest staining red -- alizarin, or quinacridone, or anthraquinoid
Now it is dark. But wait! Did it go black?  If it is not blue any more, then re-blue it!  Voila!


Try it with an orange or a yellow.  To darken them, cross the color wheel to the compliment (opposite) hue.  With orange, you would use blue. (Oops -- not too much!)  With yellow, a violet.  (Ugh!! What an ugly color! If it is brown, add some blue until it goes gray.)  Now, re-charge it with the yellow or the orange and see if it doesn't look right.  

Try painting a lemon in light. And an orange:
  • Thin it toward the light.
  • As you go out of the light, first add more of the hue you started with until you are at full saturation.
  • Then add some of the compliment
  • when it is dark enough recharge it with the initial hue until it looks like an orange or lemon in shadow.
  

 In the dark door  in Slickers and Jackets on the Line, I wet the area and socked it with a very strong saturation of phthalo blue adding ultramarine blue, burnt orange and some phthalo green to get it darker and give it some shift in hue within the dark.

Note how the cast shadows in the fragment of Trail to the Falls  bring out the sunlight.  But the small darks tucked into the greens are working very hard to convince us on the sunshine.  Without them the feeling of sun would be greatly weakened.

Warning: with flowers, don't cross the color wheel!  Go darker by stepping one color over on the color wheel toward cool -- violet for a red; orange for a yellow (or green but not both); For violet -- more red-violet toward the light, and a darker blue violet for the shadow. 
If you gray flowers, they look old and wilted. Try it and see if you agree. The rule to keep flowers looking fresh is to not have more than two primaries in any one mix: yellow and orange include yellow and red; yellow and green include yellow and blue. Mix them together and you have all 3 primaries and a dull, limp yellow. 
You may go to the Gallery section to look at shadow colors on the flowers there.

You can also get to darks by glazing but we will save those for another time.


© Caroline Buchanan, 2008



Saturday, July 05, 2008
The Green Problem
Summer is here and greens abound.  As part of our long wet spring, grasses have never been thicker, trees and shrubs more luxuriant.  Are you moaning about the green? 
 "I have so many problems with greens!"
"I can't get the greens I see in nature...."
"Why do you have pthalo green?  It is so STRONG!"
If this sounds like you, try some Green Exercises.
We will start with the last question. Why pthalo green -- Winsor Green in the Winsor Newton colors -- because it is strong and it is pure.  It is what is called a prismatic color -- think rainbow.True, we don't see it in its pure state in the greens in the Northwest.
So we start with a pure, strong green --thalo or whatever is your strongest green.
 I put a puddle of mine in the middle of the page with all of my other pigments -- green gold through all the yellows, reds, violets and blues around in a color wheel and mixed each with the tha
lo, getting a kind of a green.  When you try it, be sure it is a kind of green... that the paint doesn't become a red or a black.
Here is another way --  I show the pthalo green across the bottom, the hue I am adding in a pure swatch above and then use the two hues to make a fir tree.
Next are some trees where you just keep the green paint moving, letting a b
it of orange show through here, a bit of violet there. This is the way that greens occur in nature. 
And this is only with pthalo green!  You could do the same with each of your greens.  And! each of your blues. 
In the trees below, the third tree from the left is thalo blue. The small trees are the other pigment -- oranges, reds, violets and greens.  Note that even the reds and violets make hues which have a place scattered through the forest or garden.
The important thing is to keep the colors moving and changing, mixing on the paper instead of on your palette. Don't forget to make some greens lighter and some darker, in all of the hue varieties, changing value as well as hue.







You may want to go to the Gallery section of the website and look at the different greens in various paintings.  In addition to  keeping the colors moving and mixing on the page, I frequently glaze, layering moving colors on top of others (more about that at a later date).
Your final assignment is to put the paints aside.  Go outdoors and sit --- in a forest, a meadow or a garden.  Look at all of the variety of greens!  Look for light greens and dark.  Look for greens that are mainly yellow, for ones that register white as the sun bounces off the leaves.  Look into the deep shadows.  Do you see blue greens?  Purple greens?  Deep dark greens?  And notice how there are little patches of pure orange, red and violet scattered through the greens. Notice how those hues wake up the greens.
Green is so much more than a tube of paint.  Keep it on the move.  And have fun!

© Caroline Buchanan, 2008



Sunday, June 01, 2008
On-going and upcoming events
Sunday, June 01, 2008
Recent Past Events
Sunday, June 01, 2008
Organizing Outdoor Equipemnt

Let's face it -- a really good set up for painting outdoors has not been invented.
You need to decide how far you are planning to walk from your car. You need to take into consideration if you are planning on flying. If you are really on the go, check the equipment suggestions in the Island Hopping class. We used this set up on a hiking-painting-sketching trip to Cornwall.

If you are within easy walking distance of the car you will probably choose an easel. The problem with most easels is that you do not have a sturdy place to put your water and palette that is also in easy reach.
If you cannot reach them comfortably, the painting suffers. You also need a sturdy place for your board and paper -- no wobbling. And -- I believe it is imperative that you do not paint with the board in your lap. You get picky atrophied paintings simply because you are folded up on it. Rex Brandt used to say, "Dance into your
painting." How can you dance with your painting against your belly?

Those that stand can use a French or Italian easel but most find they need a tall table for their water and palette. You must be sure you can reach your palette and water without bending. Those that sit with an easel still need a table.

A lightweight board is a must for outdoor work.
  • If you use corrugated plastic, foam core covered with contact, or gator board, you may want to cut two and make yourself a portfolio by taping them together at the bottom. You can carry your paper protected and have a board by clipping or taping the paper to the outside when you are painting.
  • If you are traveling, cut the foam core to the size of the interior of your suitcase. Hinge the two, give it a little handle, and pack your paper inside it, in a plastic bag.

How you put together your outdoor painting set-up is up to you.
You need to be able to pack everything so you can carry it.
Be sure you can reach your palette and water without bending.
  • One Solution: two folding tables, one for her board and one for her palette and water + a chair. It all fit in a dufflebag.
  • A really simple solution is a chair and two sturdy boxes. These worked to carry the stuff and then, set on end, hold the palette, water and board.
  • The woman in the red jacket packed everything in the cart on wheel and then used the top as a table for her water and palette.
  • Very compact: piping fit over the arms of the chair and was arranged to make a siting easel + TV tray for palette and water.

Don't forget you: sunshade or hat, sun block, a scarf or cap for windy days, layered clothing: t-shirt, long-sleeved shirt, light sweater, windbreaker. Here in the Islands, jeans or slacks are more likely than shorts most days. M
aybe an easel umbrella.

A last hint: try to sit in shade. Your paper is not happy with the sun directly on it. If you cannot find shade, it helps if you sit so that your hat and body (sun behind you) shade the paper.

See an outdoor class like Watercolor Summer for the list of painting materials.
Don't forget to include something to carry water.


It may seem like a lot of trouble -- it is -- but people become addicted to plein air painting, me included. Why? You get a sense of your subject that just doesn't come from a photo. It may be a battle but the authentic experience shows in your work. See you painting outside this summer!

Caroline
©2008, Buchanan Watercolors Ltd.




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